The epicenter of "Toltec" Chichén Itzá was the Temple of Kukulkan

The second construction phase at Chichén occurred between 900 to 1000 A.D. and included not only the Temple of Kukulkan but also the Venus Platform, the Jaguar & Eagles Platform, the Tzompantli, as well as the Ballcourt and its Jaguar Temples, plus the Temple of the Warriors and the Group of a Thousand Columns.


1. The great pyramid of Kukulkan, the feathered serpent, dominates this area

Photo of the Temple of Kukulcan from the east, showing the completely restored front of the pyramid

Photo courtesy of Jeff Purcell

Kukulkan, the Feathered Serpent, was a deity closely associated with the Itzá, and was heavily influenced by the Quetzalcoatl religion of central Mexico. Kukulkan headed a pantheon of deities of mixed Maya and non-Maya provenance and was used to promote the Itzá political and commercial agenda and adopt a political system more suited to consolidating and maintaining economic and military control.

In The Ancient Maya, Robert Sherer writes: "In the northern lowlands a Putun group known as the Itza established a new capital at Chichén Itzá and parlayed great seagoing canoes into a commanding marine trading system. From this base, the Itzá replaced the old powers in Yucatan (principally Coba and the Puuc centers) and dominated most of the peninsula for several centuries."

Robert J. Sherer. The Ancient Maya: Fifth Edition. Stanford University Press. Stanford, California, 1994, p. 434



The Pyramid of Kukulkan as Maudslay found it in 1889 was in disarray

Maudslay's 1889 photo of the Temple of Kulkulcan seen from the south east

From the Maudslay Collection, British Museum. Used with permission under the CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 non-commercial license. ©The Trustees of the British Museum.

The Temple of Kukulcan was in poor shape when Maudslay visited in 1889. The valuted chambers at the top were partially collapsed, and much of the stone veneer cladding the pyramid base had been loosened by tree roots and displaced.

Before photographing, Maudslay had the jungle cleared so the structure of the temple could be distinguished. The chopped off trees littering the forground attest to that effort.



Feathered serpent columns anchor the balustrades of the Temple of Kukulkan

Maudslay's 1889 photo of the giant feathered serpent heads anchoring the balustrad of the Temple of Kukulkan

From the Maudslay Collection, British Museum. Used with permission under the CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 non-commercial license. ©The Trustees of the British Museum.

Feathered serpents of massive proportions decorated the four stairways of the Temple of Kukulkan. This photo was taken at the foot of the northern stairway.

These serpent heads and their associated balustrades were positioned so that during the vernal and autumnal equinoxes, a shadow from the stepped sides of the pyramid appears to slither down the pyramid toward the Sacred Cenote, a phenomena which draws huge crowds even today.



Feathered serpent columns support the front façade of the temple

Modern photo of the columns supporting the front façade of El Castillo, the Temple of Kukulcan at Chichén Itzá

Photo courtesy of Jeff Purcell

The temple atop the Kukulkan pyramid showing the descending feathered serpents. Unfortunately, the serpent heads holding up the coumns are missing.



Doorjambs leading to the inner temple still retain traces of their original paint

Doorjamb of the central doorway of the Temple of Kukulkan looking inward  showing carved warrior and remnants of red, green and yellow paint

Ancient Maya temples were painted in a riot of bright colors. Remnants of original paint can still be seen on some of the interior carvings.

Photo courtesy of Jeff Purcell



All doorjambs were carved with an armed warrior figures

Doorjamb of central doorway of the Temple of Kukulkan at Chichén Itzá looking outward and showing a carved warrior

Photo courtesy of Jeff Purcell



2. The Venus Platform, with Temple of Kukulkan in the background

The Venus Platform with El Castillo in background

Both the Venus Platform and the smaller Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars are a type of radial pyramid — flat-topped platforms with four stairways aligned to the four cardinal directions. Alfred Maudslay observes: "There can be little doubt that Nos. 13 (Platform of Eagles and Jaguars) and 14 (Venus Platform) are the two small paved "theatros de Canteria" [theaters of stone] mentioned by Landa."

A.P, Maudslay, Biologia Centrali-Americana: Archaeology, Volume V (Text), London, R.H. Porter, 1889-1902, p. 34

These platforms, then, probably served as outdoor stages for dance, ritual performance & theater. The spaces surrounding them could easily accomodate large crowds of spectators and foreign visitors.

NOTE: Maudslay's reference to the notorious Bishop Diego di Landa is significant here, because although Landa arrived in Yucatan in 1549 and Chichén Itzá had long before fallen into ruin, it remained an important center of pilgrimage and ritual for the Maya. Landa remains a major source of information on the customs and practices of the Maya at the time of the conquest.



The Venus Platform was in serious disarray when Maudslay encountered it in 1889

Maudslay's 1889 photo of carved blocks from the Venus Platform that lay scattered around the central mound when he visited

From the Maudslay Collection, British Museum. Used with permission under the CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 non-commercial license. ©The Trustees of the British Museum. Plate e.

Augustus Le Plongeon had arrived in Chichén Itzá in 1873, prior to Maudslay's tenure, where he discovered and named a large Chacmool statue. Ian Graham, Maudslay's biographer, describes La Plongeon as "the very archetype of the imaginative and deluded antiquary...With his bald head, penetrating gaze, long straggly beard, and confident knowledge of recondite histories, Augustus Le Plongeon must have made a deep impression in Yucatán. Some, however, were less deeply impressed, including the Mexican government, which confiscted his Chacmool, to his acute indigation."

Maudslay (who references the Venus Platform as "mound 14") writes with understandable professional exasperation: "No, 14, to the east of the last mound described, is also the scene of Dr Le Plongeon's excavations. It is much to be hoped that this mound was properly cleared, and a series of photograph taken of it before the excavation was commenced. It is very difficult now to make out its sculptural decorations, as the whole of the centre has been excavated and the stones and earth thrown over the sides, and it would have been the work of many days to have removed the large heaps of débris."

A.P, Maudslay, Biologia Centrali-Americana: Archaeology, Volume V (Text), London, R.H. Porter, 1889-1902, p. 34

Dispite the condition of Mound 14 itself, the carving on its scattered blocks is remarkably well preserved. The image of a fish in the upper left of the photo, or the "Vision Serpent" with the human head in its jaws in the square block in the center of the photo, are remarkably clear.



A number of serpent heads were found buried in Mound 14 (Venus Platfomr)

Photo of numerous serpent heads that Maudslay found partially buried in the area of the Venus Platform (which he referred to as Mound 14

Maudslay continues: "Some of the contents of this mound, dug out by Dr. Le Plongeon are figured on Plate LIII in the position in which he left them. They consist of a large number of sugar-loaf-shaped stones...and a considerable number of plumed serpents' heads. How these sculptured stones came to be buried the the mound is a mystery; the serpents have clearly at one time formed the external decoration of some building, as the end of almost every one of the stones is provided with a tenon to fix it into masonry.

He then adds "There can be little doubt that Nos. 13 (Platform of Eagles and Jaguars) and 14 (Venus Platform) are the two small paved "theatros de Canteria" [stone theaters] mentioned by Landa."

A.P, Maudslay, Biologia Centrali-Americana: Archaeology, Volume V (Text), London, R.H. Porter, 1889-1902, p. 34



Despite Maudslay's fears, the Venus Platform was successfully re-assembled

Modern photo of the reassembled Venus Platform detail showing a Vision Serpent plus a panel above showing a feathered serpent and fish

However, it appears that despite Maudslay's fears, the Venus Platform was able to be convincingly reconstructed, and presents a handsome appearance to visitors today.

It is interesting that the central panel of the platform, which Maudslay describes as "a full-faced view of a plumed dragon with a human head issuing from its open jaw" is easier to make out in the 1889 photo than in this modern photo. This is a common Maya theme, and can be seen in many Puuc sites, e.g., at Uxmal in the temple atop the Grand Pyramid.



Handsome serpent-headed balustrades adorn the platform staircases

Modern closeup photo of a serpent head crowning the balustrad on the Venus Platform

Photo courtesy of Jeff Purcell

Magnificent pairs of serpent heads adorn each of the stairways of this Platform.



Corner view of the successfully restored Venus Platform today

Corner detail of the Venus Platform



3. The Tzompantli or Skull Rack is located between El Castillo & the Ballcourt

The Tzompantli or Skull Rack at Chichén Itzá

Tzompantlis or skull racks were introduced to the Maya by the Toltecs with the appearances of the tzompantli in the Chichén Itzá ball courts. Six ball court reliefs at Chichén Itzá depict the decapitation of a ball player; it seems that the losers would be beheaded and would have their skulls placed on the tzompantli.

The travel writer Joyce Kelly notes that one of the most interesting exhibits in the Chichén Itzá Museum is a ballcourt ring, carved with a feathered serpent, that was discovered inside the Tzompantli when it was excavated.



4. The smaller platform of the Eagles & Jaguars lies adjacent to the Tzompantli

Modern photo of the Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars

The Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars is a smaller but similar version of the Venus Platform and is placed near the Tzompantli. It is decorated with images of jaguars (central square panel) and eagles (rectangular panel to the right of the jaguar).

The "Order of the Eagles" and the "Order of the Jaguars" were the two primary military orders at Chichén Itzá, who, it is said, were responsible for obtaining victims for sacrifice. The Eagles were elite archers who attacked before the Jaguars entered fighting hand-to-hand with clubs tipped with obsidian knives. The top rectangualar panels represent prostrate human figures.



Maudslay's 1889 photos of Jaguar & Eagle panels on "Mound 13"

Maudslay's 1889 photo of jaguar and eagle panel details from the Platform of Eagles and Jaguars at Chichén Itzá

Alfred Maudslay, Biologia Centrali-Americana: Archaeology, Vol III & IV: Plates. London, 1889–1902, Mound 13 Plate 2.

The jaguar and eagle on these panels appear to be eating human hearts, which are held up respectively by paw and claw.

Maudslay, continuing to express his frustration with the work habits of the eccentric Dr. Le Plongeon, writes: "Close to this terrace is the small mound No. 13, which is now about 12 feet high, and is approached on all sides by stairways with serpent-head balustrades. The sides of the mound were perpendicular, and were decorated with figures of jaguars, vultures, &c. Near by is lying a figure which appears to represent a dead jaguar. It is not possible to give an accurate description of this mound, as it had been the site of one of Dr. Le Plongeon's excavations, and I had not time to remove the mass of stones and earth which had been dug out from the centre and lay heaped up against the sides. But it was, I believe, in this mound that Dr. Le Plongeon found the stone figure which he names Chac-Mol, which is now in the Museum at Mexico."

Alfred Maudslay, Biologia Centrali-Americana: Archaeology, Vol V: Text. London, 1889–1902, p. 33

The name "Chac-Mol" caught on, although it was never the Maya name for these figures. Such figures, in addition to the one dug up at the Platform of Eagles and Jaguars, were also found in front of the serpent columns of the Temple of the Warriors and the Temple of the Carved Columns, as well as one lying a short distance from the Tzompantli. These figures, holding offering plates over their stomachs, were probably use to hold the hearts of sacrificial victims.



A final glance backward at the iconic El Castillo from the south east

Modern photo of El Castillo as seen from the south east

During the spring and fall equinoxes, the shadow cast by the angle of the sun hitting the edges of the platforms of the Pyramid of Kukulkan combined with the northern stairway and the stone serpent head carvings to create the illusion of a massive serpent descending the pyramid.